I was thinking this morning about a fact sheet I wrote a few years ago about Centipedegrass maintenance. Looked it up when I got into the office. Some pretty good reminders for September through November.
I’ve edited these recommendations to reach a common denominator between the different types of turfgrass grown here in the midlands. If you want to see the entire schedule for each turf type visit the Clemson Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC) and search your turf.
Fertilization: Do not apply nitrogen at this time. Lime may be added if recommended by a soil test. Potash can be applied to enhance winter hardiness if a soil test indicates low levels of potassium. Apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet, 4 to 6 weeks before expected frost, using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60) or 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50).
Irrigation: Continue to water to prevent drought stress. After lawn has become dormant, water as needed to prevent excessive dehydration. This is especially important if warm, bright days precede days forecasted to be in the low 20’s or lower.
Insect Control: Check for white grubs and control as necessary.
Weed Control: Apply preemergence or postemergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Preemergence herbicides are most effective when applied as nighttime temperatures drop into the upper 50s. Preemergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be overseeded with ryegrass.
